Mariko san

You have over 15 years of experience as a wagashi artisan. What first drew you to this craft?

I’ve always loved making sweets. As a child, I would bake cakes and cookies to share with my family and friends. Seeing people enjoy what I created filled me with joy, even at that young age. When I attended culinary school and studied not only Western pastries but also wagashi, I discovered the depth of Japanese culture, tradition, and craftsmanship. Wagashi, in particular, are rarely made at home and require highly specialized techniques. That uniqueness and depth irresistibly drew me into this world.

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You’ve worked in Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo. How have these different places influenced your approach to wagashi?

Wagashi developed in two major cultural regions: Kanto (eastern Japan) and Kansai (western Japan). Beyond differences in flavor, their artistic approaches are distinctly unique. In Kanto, wagashi often depict nature realistically, while in Kansai, the focus is on abstraction, allowing the name of the sweet to inspire the imagination of the person enjoying it. Both styles have their own beauty, and living in each region has enriched my practice in a profoundly meaningful way.

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Your work is deeply tied to the seasons. What does seasonality mean to you in wagashi creation?

Japan is a country defined by its four seasons, and wagashi reflect this beautifully. Cherry blossoms in spring, fireworks in summer, autumn leaves, and winter snow—each season has its own symbols. Wagashi are more than just desserts; they are a form of art that expresses the passage of seasons and allows us to experience their subtle transitions.

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You’ve received several national awards for your craft. How have these recognitions influenced your work today?

Winning a competition requires both talent and sensitivity. While luck can play a role, no award is earned without hard work. Of course, I’m grateful for these honors, but they also signify that I’ve mastered techniques worthy of such recognition. These experiences have allowed me to build valuable connections and deepen my immersion in the world of wagashi.

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You’re also trained in the Urasenke tea ceremony. How does its philosophy influence your wagashi creations?

Wagashi served on special occasions differ from those prepared for the tea ceremony. In the tea ceremony, wagashi are not the focal point. The harmony of the entire space—the utensils, the kakemono (hanging scrolls), and the atmosphere—is essential. Wagashi play a supporting role, enhancing the experience rather than standing out. Finding this balance is a challenge, but it’s also endlessly fascinating.

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What matters most to you when creating wagashi for ThéRâPie?

Above all, I want to create something truly delicious while staying true to the traditional wagashi passed down through generations.

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Is there a particular wagashi or technique that holds a special place in your heart?

Nerikiri is especially meaningful to me. It’s an extremely demanding sweet because the bean paste is entirely handcrafted, but it’s essential for expressing the seasons and embodying the essence of traditional wagashi.

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How do you balance tradition and personal expression in your work?

When I see wagashi in Europe, I often feel that truly traditional creations are rare, and many resemble Western pastries made with Japanese ingredients. While these are delicious—and I enjoy them myself—traditional wagashi carry the soul of Japanese culture. I continue to create them so people can experience this culture firsthand. At the same time, I strive to develop flavors that resonate with European customers while remaining accessible.

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What do you hope ThéRâPie’s guests feel when they discover your wagashi?

I hope that outside of Japan, people can experience the sensation of the seasons and flavors as if they were there.

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Is there a detail in your work that guests might overlook but is deeply important to you?

For nerikiri, I prepare the bean paste using an extremely fine sieve to achieve a smoother texture and optimal melt-in-the-mouth quality. I believe those who pay attention can sense the difference.

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Finally, what does it mean to you to share wagashi outside of Japan?

For me, it’s about sharing Japanese tradition and culture. Wagashi engage all five senses: their appearance, aroma, texture, flavor, and even the sound and resonance of their names. The name of a wagashi invites imagination: What does it look like? Why does it have this name? What story lies behind it? Understanding this is also understanding Japanese culture. That said, if someone simply finds my wagashi delicious, that alone brings me immense joy.

I hope to continue offering even better wagashi in the years to come.